Other than the immediate locale, which is a touch on the seedy side, everything else about Coi (pronounced “kwa”) is carefully calculated toward reaching foodie nirvana. From the polished, professional staff to the sleek, elegant, room with its soothing earth tones and minimalist design, the backdrop of Coi is set up to to let the undisputed star-in this case, Chef Daniel Patterson’s creative, eclectic nightly tasting menus-take center stage.

Known for twisting impeccably fresh ingredients into inventive combinations, dinner might include a small tart of fresh, whipped goat cheese with a smear of magenta beet purée across the plate. For garnish, two small disks of cooked golden beets, tiny dill sprigs, and crushed caraway seeds. A silky bowl of chilled English pea soup might follow it, garnished with a dollop of fresh ricotta and a few clinging orange nasturtium petals.