Chef-writer Daniel Patterson (formerly of Frisson, Elisabeth Daniel, and Babette’s) cowrote a book on fragrant food (Aroma), and now he is bringing scent to the forefront of his serene pre-fixe heaven, Coi. Dishes like tuna-tomato tartare with harissa and a caper and raisin sorbet; grapefruit salad accompanied by a dot of grapefruit perfume – not to eat, but for your wrist; and a roasted guinea hen redolent of vadouvan (an Indian spice mix) prove that this idea is not the folly of some mad scientist but the artistry of a genuine talent.