Postcard from Tom
The Washington Post
October 1, 2006
Washington Food Critic Tom Sietsema’s monthly report from the road.
Pow! Daniel Patterson grabs us by the collar at first bite with a gift of minced radish, ginger, green apple, celery and mint nestled in the bowl of a bent spoon. The contemporary California flavors that follow (tuna-tomato tartare with a caper-raisin sorbet, guinea hen roasted with Indian spices) can be just as engaging. Dressed in shades of bark and coffee, the 30-seat Coi is a cocoon of organic comfort in North Beach; insiders know to say “kwoh” after an old French word for tranquil-which Coi is.