Also restrained in appearance but fiercely innovative in its cuisine is Daniel Patterson’s Coi (pronounced “kwa”; it’s French for “quiet, tranquil,” which is exactly what Coi is), very San Franciscanly set side by side with strip joints and sex shops. Coi’s is not comfort food but a challenge, usually with a substantial reward. When the waiter instructs you to dab your finger in “Coi essential oil” and rub it on the back of your hand before you touch the tiny salad of grapefruit, ginger, black pepper and tarragon, you may laugh, but the damned thing tastes great. Coi is an exotic voyage: daring and ultimately exhilarating. 375 Broadway; 415-393-9000; coirestaurant.com.